When I bought a ticket to ride the narrow-gauge train from Durango to Silverton last summer, my only concern was nabbing a window seat for views of the San Juan Mountains. Unfortunately, riders on the historic train face more challenges this year.

The “Baby Train,” as it is sometimes called, is running again — sort of. Shut down by the coronavirus pandemic in March, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad (D&SNGRR) was ready to roll again in June when businesses in southwestern Colorado began to reopen. Then, heavy rain washed out a bridge south of Silverton.

The train whistle is finally blowing again, but only for shorter journeys from the Rockwood Station, 18 miles north of Durango, to Cascade Canyon and back. Passengers on the two-hour Cascade Canyon Express Excursions must wear face masks and maintain social distance.

Following the Animas River

Riding the Durango train is still a rolling history adventure not to be missed – even without the final stop in Silverton.  Views from the old-fashioned, open-air rail cars are spectacular as a massive coal-fired, steam locomotive powers the train through rugged mountains along the banks of the fast-moving Animas River.

What’s makes the “Baby Train” special is its narrow tracks. Set three feet apart, instead of the standard 4-feet-8 inches, the skinny rails allow the train to wind along the steep slopes of peaks reaching up to 14,000 feet.

The train was built to haul precious metals from the gold and silver mines between Silverton and Durango in the 1880s. Today, heritage trains roll along those same tracks carrying railroad enthusiasts — from toddlers to seniors – excited to ride one of only two narrow-gauge trains still plying the Rocky Mountains.

Durango Train Museum a Must-See

A ticket for the Durango train topped my must-do list when I planned my escape from the Texas heat last August.  I also want to take in some train history at the museum in Durango’s clapboard depot.

The museum, located in half of the railroad’s roundhouse, is a treasure trove of railroad memorabilia. The centerpiece is a towering coal-fired steam locomotive, No. 42, built in 1887. There’s also a passenger car from the movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and an elaborate model train set. In a tribute to other forms of transportation, an early 1900s Curtis Model D biplane dangles from the rafters.

 I could have spent hours there, but I had a morning train to catch. My ride was an open-air rail car painted bright Rio Grande gold. Basic bench seats faced outward on both sides, with an aisle down the center, in my coach car. Other options include cars with costumed narrators and parlor-style cars with plush seats and period décor.

My seat wasn’t as good as I had hoped. Riders in open-air cars literally hang out windows to snap photos. Unless you snag the first seat in a car, your photos – like mine — often include the elbows, arms and cameras of others.

Pristine Views of San Juan Mountains

Even so, the mountain scenery on my 3.5-hour ride was stunning, enhanced by a radiant blue sky. Once the train left Durango’s Old West-style downtown and passed the suburbs, we followed the scenic Aramis River before climbing 3,000 feet into the pristine San Juan National Forest. Pine trees replaced cottonwoods. Snow drifts filled the highest crevices; the remains of old mines tumbled down hill sides.

We weren’t going fast – about 15 miles an hour – but the rocking rhythm of the wheels rolling on the rails made it challenging to walk to the concession car, where I purchased a celebratory Bloody Mary. 

Gazing down on the river as it splashed over boulders and fallen trees some 400-feet below was enough to induce vertigo and a temporary return to my seat.  Everyone jumped to their feet, cameras jutting out the windows, when the powerful locomotive, spewing grey smoke, wrapped the train cars around the curves of the High Line like a snake on a ledge.

At times, trees and rocks were close enough to touch – something train officials warn riders NOT to do.

Near the end of our 45-mile excursion, the mountains opened up for a panoramic snapshot of the old mining town of Silverton, which sits in a secluded valley at 9,318 feet. As the terrain flattened out, the train chugged into the heart of town and parked.

I spent the next two hours strolling Silverton’s unpaved streets and admiring Victorian buildings such as the 1902 Wyman Hotel and Inn. Other visitors toured the town aboard an old stage coach. After a quick lunch in the shady courtyard of a saloon, I skipped the train ride to Durango and caught a bus instead.

The journey was smoother, but not nearly as memorable.

Fact Box:  Cascade Canyon Express Excursions run several times a day, Tuesday through Saturday, and are expected to continue through fall 2020. Regularly scheduled service between Durango and Silverton should resume in spring 2021. Train fares are lower on the shorter canyon route. Fares also vary by whether cars are pulled by a steam or a diesel locomotive. Steam engines are being phased out because of fire safety concerns along the route.