A love affair with the rocks of Southern Utah

“Utah has the best rocks.” That’s what my friend Shellie told me when she learned about my plans to visit the Mighty 5 National Parks in Utah on a road trip last May.   I laughed and nodded. But I didn’t really understand what she meant until we turned south on Utah 128, not long after crossing into the state on I-70 from Colorado. We’d just driven through the magnificent Rocky Mountains from Denver. We’d gaped at several 14-teeners, wound around numerous lofty cliffs, and...

Following in the Footsteps of Ancestral Puebloans at Chimney Rock

I love mysteries, whether they unfold on the page or echo from a craggy rock formation in the high desert of southwestern Colorado. Crisp, fall air drew me to the twin peaks of Chimney Rock National Monument last fall, during a road trip through New Mexico and Colorado. After clambering up the steep trail to the top for a 360-degree view of the San Juan Mountains, I was captivated by the legends linking this isolated outpost to the ancient Chaco culture. Ancestral Puebloans, as they...

Ordinary Cubans Living on an Extraordinary Island

When our tour guide in Cuba married his high-school sweetheart, the couple had two choices: move in with his parents and grandparents in an already crowded apartment or share the porch with another couple in the tiny dwelling of her extended family. They chose the porch. There were no other options for the newlyweds in Havana in the early 2000s.   Anthony DePalma’s new book, “The Cubans” reminded me of the stories I heard about ordinary Cubanos when I visited the island-nation on a small...

An Elephant Experience in Texas

Elephants in Texas? No way. That’s what I thought until I spent a September afternoon with five gregarious pachyderms at the Hill Country Elephant Preserve outside of  Stonewall, Texas—about 65 miles west of Austin. I learned about the preserve while perusing a list of typical businesses on the website of the Stonewall Chamber of Commerce. Immediately curious because I’m fascinated by elephants, I emailed the preserve for more information.  An invitation to join an “elephant experience” arrived a few days later. I followed Google maps...

Exploring the ‘Grand’ Canyons of Texas

The glowing orange sphere slowly peaked above the dark walls of the “Grand Canyon of Texas,” illuminating subterranean spires, buttes, and mesas bathed in soft terra cotta colors. Watching the stunning sunrise over Palo Duro Canyon was well worth skipping soggy scrambled eggs and dry bacon from the hotel breakfast buffet. But I was sorry I waited so long. Palo Duro Canyon State Park has been on my travel list almost since I moved to Texas two decades ago. But every time I was near...

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