Sao Paulo – Brazil’s biggest city was not on my bucket list. Rio de Janeiro, yes; Manaus in the Amazon rainforest, definitely. But I was pleasantly surprised by the sprawling business capital of the largest country in South America during a visit in early October 2018.

This city of some 20 million is packed with eclectic museums, edgy architecture, and vibrant graffiti art. Designer shops, award-winning restaurants, elegant accommodations, and high-energy night clubs abound throughout the city’s multi-ethnic neighborhoods. And the gregarious Paulistanos, as locals are called, are friendly and always eager to promote their city. Expect traffic jams, crowds and beware of pickpockets, too.

Some Highlights:

Art and architecture — Sao Paulo is a city of high-rises that seem to stretch as far as the eye can see in all directions. But amid the sea of concrete and steel are some stunning structures, including MASP – Sao Paulo’s top art museum. Located on the city’s main drag, Avenida Paulista, the modernistic museum is perched on red pillars above the sidewalk, making a visual statement from the outside. Inside is a compelling mix of impressionist works by Degas and Renoir, among others, as well as original pieces by Brazilian artists whose searing art and sculpture depict the country’s struggle to manage its diversity.

Not all of SP’s art is displayed indoors. Some of the city’s most colorful and eclectic pieces can be found in Vila Madalena. The city’s bohemian area – and Batman’s Alley, in particular – is famous for a wide and wild assortment of graffiti art. But you will also see graffiti art on buildings almost everywhere in the city.

Restaurants — Dining at the city’s best-known restaurants isn’t necessarily expensive. At Mocoto, which recently earned a coveted Michelin star, traditional food from northeastern Brazil is served simply and deliciously in a modest working-class neighborhood of Brazil. It’s all about the pig at eclectic A Casa do Porco, where the tasting menu wins raves and draws large queues for lunch and dinner daily. But if fine dining is your aim, then Seen atop the elegant Tivoli Hotel offers panoramic views and sushi and ceviche, as well as seared scallops atop gnocchi surrounded by a rich cream sauce.

Hotels — Marriott’s downtown Sao Paulo Renaissance Hotel delivers with top-notch service, elegant rooms with soaking tubs, several restaurants, a classy spa and fitness center, and drop-dead city views from the upper floors. (I could see the entire southern half of the city through the curved windows of my corner suite on the 24th floor.)  The hotel is located a couple blocks off iconic Avenida Paulista, which means it’s walking distance from shopping, cultural sites, and night spots.

For a more offbeat stay, consider Hotel Unique. It lives up to its name – outside and inside. Its crescent-shaped exterior has led to its nickname “the Watermelon,” but Brazilian architect Ruy Ohtake had the hull of a ship in mind when he sketched the design on a napkin. Windows in guestrooms are shaped like portholes. Rooftop bar Skye and the adjoining pool are popular places to watch the sunset. For a more refined park-like setting, there’s the elegant Palacia Tangara, where you can dine at a Jean-Georges restaurant while watching tiny Sagui monkeys play tag on the patio.

LATAM Airlines flies nonstop to Sao Paulo from New York, Miami, Los Angeles and Las Vega, among other US and international cities. Contact Brazil’s tourist board Embratur can provide more information about Sao Paulo.